BuildTak 6.5" x 6.5" Square 3D Printer Build Plate for Optimal Print Adhesion

Luke: Genuine BuildTak, Used to replace the stock fake buildtak sheet on my Creality Ender-2 [sic]

Canada on Aug 05, 2021

SuperESuperE: The printing surface on my Monoprice Voxel (aka. Flashforge Adventurer III) was in poor shape after 600 hours of printing with PLA and PETG.

The BuildTak surface is finer by comparison and makes for a great replacement.

Installing the BuildTak was easy - getting the previous build surface off was a nightmare that required a lot of effort.

My built plate is 150x150 and the Buildtak only needed to be cut a very tiny amount.

I've already printed several objects using PETG and it's got very good adhesion (maybe too much with my settings). The printed item does leave marks when removed, but PETG is known to be aggressive, so I'm not worried. Lowering the bed temperature has already helped with the removal of subsequent prints.

Overall, I'm quite happy. Considering that this was a 3 pack, I'll likely be printing well over 1000 more hours before I'll need to reorder.

Canada on Sep 26, 2019

Ari a Namue: Ich habe viel mit Druckoberflächen experimentiert, vor allem weil ich ohne jede Erfahrung, die Nozzle Height immer so tief wie möglich einstellen wollte, um den First Layer endlich zur Haftung auf dem Druckbett zu bewegen.
Die Ergebnisse waren mal gut und mal schlecht, obwohl die Höhe immer gleich eingestellt war. Oberflächen wie die dem Drucker-Kit beiliegende, Bluetape und sogar PEI änderten nichts an den inkonsistenten Ergebnissen.
Ein Druck haftete gut, der nächste nicht und der übernächste lies sich kaum lösen. Auch Leveln nach jedem Druck brachte da nichts.
Viel hatte ich mir nicht versprochen von einer neuen Oberfläche, aber zumindest war ich überzeugt, dass es nicht an meinen Einstellungen lag. Ich nahm also an, dass die Oberflächen einfach sehr schnell "verschleißen", also bestellte ich mir ein 3er Pack der Druckoberfläche, auf die so viele setzen.
Jetzt weiß ich, warum.
Bett leveln mit 50°C Betttemperatur, First Layer 25% höher als die generelle Layer Height und die ersten zwei Layer 5°C heißer als den Rest (und ohne Part Cooling) und die Inkonsistenz ist Geschichte.
ABS und PETG muss ich noch ausprobieren, aber PLA ist hiermit...

Germany on Feb 27, 2019

Samuel v.K.: Ich besitze die BuildTak Auflage jetzt seit über einem Jahr und die restlichen 2 Stück liegen bis jetzt noch unbenutzt im Schrank.

Die Oberfläche findet bei mir in einem Geeetech MeCreator 2 einsatz und musste bis jetzt nicht ausgetauscht werden.
Die Montage ist sehr einfach, auf die beheizte Aluminiumplatte aufkleben -> fertig.
Die Drucke haften wunderbar, bis jetzt haben sich nur in Ausnahmefällen die Drucke von der Platte gelöst und das lag wahrscheinlich eher an falschen Druckeinstellungen.
Die fertigen Drucke sind bei abgekühlter Druckplatte von Hand entfernbar, für flache Drucke oder bei neu aufgeklebter Oberfläche ist das Entfernen der Drucke ein wenig schwieriger, aber mit einer kleinen Zange und/oder z.B.: einem Spachtel ist selbst das kein Problem.
Jedoch sollte man mit dem Spachtel aufpassen nicht die Oberfläche zu zerkratzen, dies würde die Lebensdauer der Oberfläche stark verkürzen.

Alles in allem bin ich sehr zufrieden. Anfang 2017 habe ich es für knapp unter 20€ gekauft und selbst bei dem, jetzt leicht höheren, Preis ist es die Anschaffung allemal wert, selbst für welche die weniger oft drucken.

Germany on Jul 08, 2018

LORSIGNOL Frédéric: Un gain de propreté sur les surface. Avant j'avais l'espèce de plaque scotch qui est fourni par défaut avec l'imprimante qui donne un résultat moyen et très fragile. Alors que là la surface est d'un meilleur rendu et plus facile à décoller en revanche pas de mystère j'utilise toujours le stick de colle si la température ambiante est < à 20°C mais même avec cette artifice c'est impeccable, un légé nettoyage à l'eau ou chiffon mouillé de la surface possédant la colle et hop plus rien n'y parait mise à part une belle surface. La dimension passe bien à 100% pas besoins de retoucher. Pour la XYZ Printing mini Wifi je conseille cette "upgrade".

France on Mar 22, 2017

Nick: The plastic non/stick surface is excellent and works great, unless you have a heated build plate... The reason I gave this product 4 stars is because the adhesive and plastic material tends to ripple at the ends between 4 and 6 uses in machines that use heated build plates and chambers. Maybe a slight reformulation of the adhesive would fix this issue? Or is it the adhesive and material? Of course for now, this is the best non-experimental, quick, repeatable solution out there so I will keep ordering them. I mean who wants to keep using blue tape and other half-baked oddball methods if they don't work consistently, there's too much experimentation and prep, and an exact type of it has to be used? Perhaps those so cheap that they can't see the forest for the trees and don't mind messing with it and tinkering constantly? That's the difference between hobby and prototype / production. People in it for hobby aspects can afford to tinker and experiment, those of us who use this technology in a business must find a balance between saving money and producing results quickly and accurately with consistency and minimal downtime / time wasted. To each there own I guess. Fix the ripple issue...

United States on Jul 10, 2015

D. Yon: Absolutely transforms how you use your printer. I own a Simple Metal, and even after adding the heated bed was still struggling with adhesion issues. I had settled on Kapton tape with hair spray, and had to diligently prep the surface for each print. I did grow fond of the Kapton's shiny finish, though the BuildTak's finish is also appealing. Wish it were easier to switch between the two as sometimes I would be willing to live with Kapton's limitations to get the gloss for things like front panels.

As the mfgr states, and others have reinforced, Z-height is critical. Plan on doing some smaller prints first to dial that in. 0.1mm can make a huge difference between welded-to-the-base-and-can't-get-it-off and poor adhesion. The latter often shows up as either adhesion issues in the horizontal plane (since there's not enough squish to spread the filament) or poor layer adhesion in upper layers (again, since each layer isn't really getting the squish it needs to stick to the one below). I've found that even different colors can have different sweet spots, which is where using M212 to program slightly different Z offsets can simplify the workflow.

But when you've found...

United States on Apr 09, 2015

J. Becker: So, I was upset after my first print attempt... I had the nozzle really close to the surface, resulting in a print that felt like it had completely bonded to the BuildTak surface. I had to use a razor blade to scrape it (and the remnants) off the BuildTak. I thought I had ruined the first sheet. After carefully scraping, I was surprised to see the surface had some "rub marks" but no knicks or gouges.

Then, I over-corrected by setting my g-code Z-Axis offset really high. Here's what blew my mind: I did a set of 24 pieces in a single build (about 4-5hrs), without realizing that my Z-Axis was so high, the filament wasn't being pressed onto the surface it was just draping down in a string, about .4-.5mm above the surface. And the crazy thing is, everything STUCK.

This stuff is sticky beyond belief. I can tell you that if I had been printing on painters tape or kapton, the filament would have been all over the place. I had gotten used to a very strict routine of wiping my tape with alcohol, then a light hairspray coat, hoping that it would be enough to stick. With BuildTak, I'm probably on my fifth print in a row without even using alcohol to clean it. And everything is...

United States on Mar 20, 2015

Lance Beasley: Having spent a fair amount of time with 3D printing on a Printrbot Simple Metal, here are the pros and cons. Full disclaimer, I've used this product once but already see its benefits:

PROS
1. At least on the first print, the printed part STUCK. I'm using a heated bed, and I'd guess that made the part stick a little too well. I had to use a heat gun to loosen the part up enough so that I could peel it off (destroying the print). However, having done a LOT of prints on a non-heated bed, this stuff looks great. I'd imagine a regular touch-up with some 90% alcohol would help keep the surface in oil free so that the first print layer adheres well.
2. You may not be able to tell from the pics, but the tack surface has a nice texture.
3. If you're a member of that ignominious club of people who have had their print nozzle gouge a nice ugly watermark reminder into their print bed, this stuff does well to get you back to a nice smooth build surface.

CONS
1. The only one I know of is that, for a heated bed, this stuff holds way too well. However, a layer of Kapton tape over the top of it works nicely. When I was applying the tape though, because the BuildTak...

United States on Feb 18, 2015