How to Choose the Mountaineering & Ice Climbing Crampons
Exploring the Essential Gear: A Comprehensive Guide to Crampons
- 1. Exploring the Essential Gear: A Comprehensive Guide to Crampons
- 1.1. Crampon History
- 1.2. Components of Crampons
- 1.3. Types of Crampons
- 1.3.1. Step-in Crampons
- 1.3.2. Strap-on Crampons
- 1.4. Considerations When Choosing Crampons
- 1.4.1. Crampon Frames
- 1.4.2. Construction
- 1.4.3. Types of Bindings
- 1.4.4. Points
- 1.4.4.1. Number of Points
- 1.4.4.2. Frontpoints
- 1.4.4.3. Modular vs. Non-Modular
- 1.4.5. Crampon/Boot Compatibility
- 1.5. Crampon Accessories
- 1.6. Proper Usage and Maintenance
- 1.7. Conclusion
Crampons play a crucial role in ensuring safe travel across snow and ice. They enable individuals to traverse glaciers, ascend snow slopes, climb frozen waterfalls, and scale rock surfaces covered in ice.
Given that the majority of contemporary alpinists and ice climbers opt for leather or synthetic-leather boots over plastic mountaineering boots, the prevailing standard is semi-rigid construction with horizontal frames. The evolution of modern design and manufacturing techniques has resulted in crampons that are not only lighter but also provide a more precise and comfortable fit.
In this article, we will delve into the different types of crampons, their components, proper usage, and essential considerations when choosing the right pair for your adventures.
Crampon History
Since the 16th century, shepherds in the Alps utilized crampons crafted from horseshoe nails affixed to a wooden or metal framework. In the early 1900s, Oscar Eckenstein devised a 10-point design, later manufactured by Henry Grivel. It wasn't until a few decades later that Laurent Grivel, Henry's son, incorporated the two forward-facing front points, bringing us closer to the crampons familiar today. Although binding systems have undergone numerous changes, and various base plates and materials have been introduced, the fundamental elements of Grivel's design have endured the test of time. Present-day models represent evolutionary adaptations of the original designs he pioneered.
Components of Crampons
Understanding the key components of crampons is crucial for selecting the right pair:
Points:
- Crampons have strategically placed points that bite into ice and snow.
- Front points are crucial for ice climbing, while secondary points provide stability on flatter surfaces.
Materials:
- Most crampons are made from hardened steel, offering durability and resistance to wear.
- Lightweight aluminum crampons are also available, suitable for less technical terrain.
Bindings:
- Bindings secure the crampons to the boots and come in step-in or strap-on designs.
- It's essential to choose bindings that are compatible with your footwear.
Types of Crampons
Crampons come in various designs to suit different activities and terrains. The two main types are:
Step-in Crampons
- These are designed for rigid-soled mountaineering boots.
- They have a binding system that requires boots with a compatible welt.
- Step-in crampons are known for their stability and security, making them ideal for technical ice climbing and mountaineering.
Strap-on Crampons
- Compatible with a broader range of footwear, including hiking and trekking boots.
- These crampons have flexible straps that wrap around the boot, providing versatility and ease of use.
- Strap-on crampons are popular among hikers and those who need a more adaptable option for varying terrain.
Considerations When Choosing Crampons
Selecting the appropriate crampons is essential for ensuring secure and effective navigation in icy and snowy environments, such as mountaineering, ice climbing, or winter hiking. Here are several factors to bear in mind when choosing crampons:
Crampon Frames
When choosing crampons, the frame material is a crucial consideration. For general mountaineering, steel crampons are optimal due to their durability, making them essential for navigating technical, steep, and icy terrain. Stainless-steel crampons provide corrosion resistance along with the benefits of steel. On the other hand, aluminum crampons, being lighter, are suitable for approaches and ski mountaineering but wear out faster on rocky terrain.
- Frame Alignment: Traditionally, crampons had vertically oriented frames for double plastic boots. However, with the shift to insulated leather boots, horizontally oriented frames have become the norm. These frames flex for walking, enhance stability by keeping feet closer to the ground, and efficiently repel snow.
- Weight: While aluminum crampons are the lightest, weight savings often come at the expense of durability and strength. For non-technical climbing, aluminum is a viable choice, but caution is advised for mixed rock-and-snow climbing.
Construction
Most modern crampons are semi-rigid, offering a balance between flexibility and rigidity. This design accommodates a broad range of conditions, providing sufficient flex for winter walking and the necessary rigidity for moderate ice climbing. Some models allow adjustments to the linking bar, transitioning between semi-rigid and flexible modes for different activities.
Types of Bindings
Crampons attach to boots through various binding types:
- Hybrid: Also known as mixed or semi-step crampons, hybrids feature a heel lever and toe strap. They are compatible with boots with a stiff sole and a heel groove. Easy to put on with gloves, hybrids offer convenience without requiring precise alignment.
- Step-In: This system uses a wire bail for the toe and a heel cable with a tension lever for security. Boots with rigid soles and specific welts or grooves on the heel and toe are required. Step-in crampons are recommended for ski mountaineering and telemark boots and offer adjustable front points.
- Strap-On: Featuring nylon webbing straps, strap-on crampons are versatile, fitting various boots or shoes. Although they take longer to attach, they provide a secure fit for moderate ice routes. While not as precise as step-ins, strap-on bindings are suitable for use with multiple boots.
Points
Number of Points
Crampons typically come with either 10 or 12 points strategically positioned beneath your instep, conforming to the boot's shape. Adjusting the front bails may be necessary for optimal point extension. Some advanced models feature serrated sides on points, enhancing grip on surfaces where penetration is limited. As the intended use shifts from winter walking to technical climbing, the number of points and rigidity increase.
10-point crampons are well-suited for ski touring and glacier travel, making them suitable for climbing volcanoes or traversing routes like the Haute Route. Technical ice and mixed climbing crampons have aggressive, adjustable, and replaceable frontpoints. Waterfall-specific crampons may offer dual-point, monopoint, or monopoint offset configurations, allowing climbers to adapt to different terrains and angles.
Frontpoints
Frontpoints, referring to the forward-facing points on crampons, vary in configuration:
- Horizontal dual points are versatile for alpine and ice/snow climbing.
- Vertical dual points are preferred for steep waterfall and mixed climbs, with adjustable and replaceable options. Some include secondary frontpoints for added support and traction.
- Monopoints, a single forward-pointing option, are popular for technical waterfall and mixed climbing, chosen based on route demands and conditions.
Modular vs. Non-Modular
Crampon points are either modular (adjustable) or non-modular (fixed):
- Modular points allow for replacement or reconfiguration based on planned activities. Ideal for mixed rock-and-ice climbing.
- Non-modular points can be sharpened but tend to get shorter with wear. These one-piece designs are lighter and lack moving parts, minimizing concerns about loosening screws.
Crampon/Boot Compatibility
The compatibility between boots and crampons is crucial for performance and safety. Consider the following:
- Boot type determines binding system options. Ultralight strap-on crampons suit hiking boots but may not be suitable for mountaineering or ice climbing.
- Flexible-soled boots may require crampons with a flexible center bar, while rigid-soled boots are compatible with various binding options.
- Match the flexibility of your footwear with the crampon. Aluminum crampons with strap-on bindings can be paired with sneakers for light mountaineering or glacier travel.
- Bring your boots when shopping to ensure a proper fit. Check for compatibility in terms of flex, shape, and length.
- When in doubt, opt for a strap-on system, as it generally fits most footwear types, ensuring a secure fit.
Crampon Accessories
- Anti-Balling Plates: All crampons are equipped with anti-balling plates, typically crafted from ABS plastic, to prevent snow accumulation on the crampon's underside. This is crucial for maintaining traction, and the use of anti-balling systems is strongly recommended by the UIAA (International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation).
- Crampon Cases and Point Covers: Safeguard your backpack and yourself from the sharp points of crampons by employing rubber point covers or a crampon case, often constructed from durable, puncture-resistant nylon. Crampon cases facilitate quick and easy storage, while rubber point covers are a more compact and cost-effective option.
- Gaiters: Alongside a crampon case, it's advisable to consider a robust pair of gaiters to shield your lower legs and clothing from potential damage caused by the sharp points of crampons.
- Spare Parts: For most crampons, alternative center bars are available for purchase. These bars can enhance or reduce the crampon's flexibility, or enable adjustments to accommodate larger boots. When venturing into remote areas, it's prudent to carry extra toe and heel bails, screws, and center bars as a precautionary measure.
Proper Usage and Maintenance
Fitting:
- Ensure a snug fit to prevent movement on the boot.
- Adjust the length and width of the crampons to match your boot size.
Walking Technique:
- Practice a flat-footed walking style to maximize contact between the crampon points and the surface.
Maintenance:
- Regularly inspect and sharpen points.
- Clean and dry crampons after each use to prevent corrosion.
Conclusion
Crampons play a crucial role in safely traversing icy and snowy terrains by offering the necessary stability and traction. It is vital to comprehend the various types, components, and correct usage to select the most suitable pair for your specific adventure. Equipped with the appropriate crampons, you can confidently engage in winter activities and pursue exciting alpine adventures.