How to Choose the Climbing Holds
Climbing Holds: Enhancing Your Climbing Experience
What’s a Climbing Hold?
A climbing hold, utilized in both rock climbing and indoor climbing walls, serves as a specialized grip or handhold. These holds are meticulously crafted to replicate the natural formations encountered on rocks, such as crevices, protrusions, and ledges. In terms of composition, climbing holds are available in diverse shapes, sizes, and textures, predominantly fashioned from materials like plastic or resin.
These climbing holds are affixed to climbing walls or structures, offering climbers designated contact points for their hands and feet. Their strategic placement serves the purpose of crafting routes or challenges with varying levels of difficulty. The configuration and positioning of these holds exert a profound influence on the character and complexity of a climbing route.
Benefits Of Climbing Holds
Climbing holds serve a pivotal role in elevating the climbing experience in several significant ways:
- Skill Advancement
Climbers are compelled to cultivate particular skills when confronted with various types of holds. For instance, crimps demand finger strength and precision, while slopers necessitate body tension and balance. The encounter with diverse holds fosters the enhancement of climbers' techniques, strength, and overall climbing prowess. - Route Design
Climbing holds are indispensable tools for route setters in crafting a wide array of challenging climbing routes. By strategically positioning holds of varying shapes and sizes, route setters can devise routes tailored to accommodate climbers of all proficiency levels. This enables climbers to progress and continuously test their abilities. - Assurance and Self-assurance
Climbing holds instill a sense of security and self-assurance in climbers. The knowledge that dependable grips are available empowers climbers to push their boundaries and undertake more demanding routes. Furthermore, holds like jugs provide moments of respite, allowing climbers to recuperate and strategize their next moves. - Muscular Development
Climbing holds engage an array of muscle groups, including the fingers, forearms, shoulders, and core. Regular climbing fosters the development of strength, stamina, and flexibility in these muscle groups. By utilizing diverse hold types, climbers can target specific muscle groups and enhance their overall climbing performance. - Cognitive Focus
Climbing holds compel climbers to assess the route, plan their maneuvers, and sustain unwavering focus throughout their ascent. The mental challenge of deciphering the optimal way to grip and navigate various holds augments problem-solving aptitude and concentration.
Different Types of Climbing Holds
- Crimps:
These are small grips characterized by thin edges, ranging from about the width of one finger pad to half the width of a finger pad. They tend to evoke strong opinions among climbers, either being loved or disliked. Crimps are excellent for testing your finger strength as they require a firm pull. - Slopers:
Slopers are rounded, often circular holds that may initially seem difficult to grasp. Typically, you'll need to employ your entire hand to maintain your grip on slopers, as they lack distinct edges. - Pinches:
When you think of pinches, imagine somewhat rectangular holds that you can grasp by closing your fingers together, resembling a crab's pincer. Pinches come in various sizes, but they all allow you to place all your fingers on one side of the hold while wrapping your thumb around the other side. - Side Pulls:
While not a specific type of hold themselves, side pulls are created based on the positioning of other hold types. Usually, a side pull is a variation of a crimp or jug, but it's oriented to the left or right. You'll engage a side pull by pulling on it similarly to a crimp or jug, but you'll leverage your body weight from the side. - Jugs:
Jugs are considered the easiest holds on a climbing wall because you can grab them with your entire hand and easily haul yourself up the wall. These holds are typically found on beginner-level climbs but can also serve as rest points on more challenging routes. - Pockets:
Pockets are small holds that can accommodate only 2 or 3 fingers. Pulling on a pocket requires strong finger strength, but they can also serve as good footholds since they conform well to the toe of climbing shoes. A subset of pockets known as "monos" allows climbers to use a single finger, usually the middle or ring finger. - Undercling:
Similar to side pulls, underclings are not a distinct hold type but rather a technique used on certain holds. They become underclings when a jug or hold with a good edge is angled downward, requiring you to pull upward to gain leverage, engaging your biceps. - Jibs:
Jibs are tiny holds primarily used as footholds. Occasionally, they are suitable for grabbing like crimps or pulling on, and they often serve as handholds on more challenging climbs. - Volume/Wall Feature:
A volume is a substantial, block-like structure on the climbing wall, considered a part of the wall's features. When a route specifies "volume on," climbers can use any edge or surface of the volume that can be held onto during the climb. - Crack:
A crack is a vertical fissure in the wall large enough to insert your hands and feet. Jamming your hands into the crack creates tension, allowing you to pull yourself upward. - Mixed Hold Types:
Not all holds neatly fit into the above categories. You may encounter hybrid holds that combine characteristics of multiple types, such as slopey-crimps, slopey-pinches, or crimpy-pinches. These holds are not a complete version of any one type but represent a combination of features.
Factors To Consider When Choosing Climbing Holds
Material Options for Climbing Holds
You may have observed the significant price variations among different climbing hold brands, and one of the primary factors contributing to this discrepancy is the choice of material for the holds. Below, we'll discuss some of the most common materials used in climbing holds, along with their advantages and disadvantages:
- Polyurethane (PU): Polyurethane is perhaps the most prevalent material used worldwide for crafting climbing holds. Many commercial climbing gyms feature holds made from PU. This material is known for its lightweight and durability. PU allows hold manufacturers to create large, versatile holds, which is why many popular brands opt for it. However, these attractive and eye-catching holds tend to come with a higher price tag. It's essential to note that there are various PU producers on the market, some offering more affordable plastic that wears out quickly, while others produce high-end holds that are longer-lasting and offer a superior feel.
- Polyester (PE): Polyester is commonly found in European climbing gyms. PE holds offer excellent friction with a sandy texture that can last for years. Grabbing a PE hold provides a genuine rock-like sensation. Additionally, PE holds are more budget-friendly and suitable for outdoor use since their colors don't fade as quickly as PU. However, PE is relatively heavy and prone to chipping and breaking, which can limit the production of large-sized holds. Most PE hold manufacturers are based in Europe, so obtaining quality PE holds outside of Europe may be challenging.
- Wooden Holds: Wooden holds are an excellent choice for training walls due to their skin-friendly surface. In addition to common plastics, some manufacturers offer a wide range of fiberglass macros, plywood volumes, and ceramic holds.
Hold Selection Considerations
When choosing holds for your home climbing wall, there are several factors to keep in mind:
- Type of Grips: Ensure you have a diverse selection of grip types. Include enough jugs for warm-up and for setting routes on overhanging sections of your wall. Additionally, stock up on crimps, slopers, and pockets to create challenging routes that will help you improve your climbing skills. Don't forget to consider the number of footholds you'll need.
- Size: Avoid an overabundance of large holds. While climbing on big holds is enjoyable, if you have limited wall space, it's essential to choose your holds wisely.
- Hold Colors: Before deciding on the color distribution for your initial hold selection, consider your route-setting plans. Determine how you intend to mark your routes and create a coherent color scheme accordingly.
Cost
As you may have already observed, significant price disparities exist among various climbing hold brands in the market. These variations in pricing can be attributed to factors such as the choice of materials (PU, PE, or others) or the size of the holds. However, there are additional considerations that influence the cost. One of these factors is the expertise of the hold's shaper. Many of the leading climbing hold brands offer products shaped by seasoned professionals in the field of climbing hold design.
Crafting an ergonomic, skin-friendly climbing hold requires genuine craftsmanship, honed over years of climbing, route setting, and shaping experience. Consequently, the higher price associated with certain brands is a reflection of the design proficiency and the countless hours invested by the shaper. It's essential not to underestimate the importance of this aspect because using high-quality holds can significantly aid your progression as a climber.
Moreover, climbing on well-crafted holds can also play a pivotal role in injury prevention by encouraging correct body positioning and hand placement while climbing.
In conclusion, climbing holds play a crucial role in the climbing adventure, offering climbers the essential elements of support, difficulty, and diversity. By grasping the various hold types and their importance, climbers can enhance their skills, strength, and mental concentration. Whether you're a novice or a seasoned climber, embrace the array of climbing holds and relish the thrilling voyage of conquering new peaks.
